Beyond the Steppe: How Mongolia is Reclaiming Its Golden Heritage
... There is a specific kind of silence that only exists in the Mongolian steppe. It is a silence that carries the weight of history and the freshness of an unending blue sky. When I first visited Mongolia in 1990, the nation was finding its feet after decades of Soviet influence. Returning today, I found a country that has raced toward the future while keeping its soul firmly in the saddle.
The Spirit of the Steppe
There were few people in the streets, I remembered, most, presumably, out on the steppe. But those we saw walked with the quiet dignity bestowed by a solitary life in the wilderness, in tune with the ever-changing moods of nature.
The men were strong and big-boned, with felt hats and thick leather boots. Many strode with an awkward gait, more accustomed, it seemed, to life in the saddle than meandering through urban streets. It is a local truth that Mongol children are said to ride before they can walk, and seeing the way the people carry themselves, you believe it.
A Modern Mystique
Now, more than 30 years later, the romance of that old, rattling train journey from Beijing has faded into a distant dream. But modern Mongolia holds its own mystique.
On our recent flight, the "MIAT" call sign felt like a serendipitous omen. A Buddhist monk traveled with us, and the young airline staff gathered reverentially around him as he dispensed sage advice and prayer books. Upon landing, the lama was whisked through a VVIP enclosure—a clear sign that the "gentle religion" is not just a relic of the past, but alive and well in the modern era.
The Heady Sense of Freedom
Landing at the Chinggis Khaan airport is an experience unlike any other. With no other plane in sight, the unending blue sky above and the emptiness of the grasslands all around, a heady sense of freedom fills the air. It is the exhilaration of unspoilt lands and the solitude of a new frontier.
As we made the long drive into the city, the landscape told the story of a nation in transition. Wild horses grazed lazily against the horizon, and settlements of colorful houses floated past. Occasionally, a ger (traditional yurt) would pop into view, some ensconced within their own walled compounds. It felt as though the owners were still deciding: do they continue the nomadic existence of their ancestors, or claim a piece of land amidst the country’s headlong race towards urbanization?
Experience the Transformation
Ulaanbaatar is now a city of glass high-rises and traffic-choked streets, yet the air remains fresh, and the light holds that magical quality of summer in the high latitudes. The scent of pine and wildflowers still wafts through the breeze, reminding every traveler that no matter how high the buildings grow, the wild heart of Mongolia is only a short drive away. ....
Returning to Mongolia after decades reveals a nation transformed, yet anchored in ancient pride.
By: Vinita Ranade "The Sunday Guardian".
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